Take a look at these pretty ladies. Truth be told, I took my surfboard back. It’s the purple and pink one. I really loved it for the short time it was mine. But it was too big. Luckily for me, Eric at the Evolved Surfboards is a truly wonderful human and let me swap the board out for a smaller and shorter version which I have since ridden and is the best board that has ever been produced. AND it’s the exact same colors. This came about because my the first time at Evolved I saw my pink and purple beauty, but at the time I thought it was a little small for me. At 5’8″ it’s the shortest board I’ve ridden. I ordered the exact same board only a little bigger, and that was dumb because The One was right there. You live, you learn.
The surf was forecast to be 7-8 feet, initially. As the time to depart drew nearer the forecast was scaled back further and further until I thought our Ventura cabin by the sea was a bad idea, what else was there to do in a tiny enclave of houses trapped by highway? The forecast stayed small but the waves came in large and strong. Sometimes when you put some faith in nature and long-distance surf forecasting things just work out. But, you would not believe how cold that water was. Each of us were desperately under-insulated in 3/2 wetsuits, at least Jo-Roxy and I had booties. The water just refuses to warm up this year.